Peggy's Cove -- It Was A Dark And Stormy Night

19 October 2012

Story #597

R. Linda:

After leaving Shelburne for the second time, we headed back toward Liverpool and out onto the coastal highway toward Peggy's Cove to see the lighthouse. We followed the Lighthouse Trail with no problem finding Peggy's. Since this lighthouse is the most famous in North America and the symbol of Nova Scotia, they certainly want to make sure you find it. No problem except for one thing: the rain was back, making things dark and dreary.

The rain had become depressing, and it poured so much that we could hardly see the scenery. We did notice that the leaves had changed as we left the southwest coast, but we didn't know how much until the day we flew out of Halifax and looked down at the departing landmass. It's odd how the camera picks up the colours when everything looks drab.
                                                                                        

One thing about Nova Scotia that is telling -  the tall pines that are full at the top, no place have we seen their likes

The weather seemed to worsen as we got closer to Peggy's Cove. We were told good luck in trying to get a picture of the Light without a thousand people next to it. Well, it was Monday, and the season was pretty much over, so we thought we might have a chance. We had forgotten one important thing that we had only just noticed, and that was that the leaves were changing and the leaf peepers were descending.

As we followed the signs, it got darker, and it was becoming late afternoon, more like 3:30, but the weather made it seem like 6. We discussed whether going to the Light would be worth it.

"We are so near Gabriel, we might as well give it a whirl," Tonya said.

The landscape changed to one that looked very familiar to me. It looked a lot like the Burren back in Ireland, the granite boulders and slabs heavily dotted the earth like bones rising from the ground.

                                                                                       

                                                                                   

As we neared the Light, it got very dark suddenly, and the thing that creeped both of us out was something we did not know about. As we came up to a particularly rocky landscape, on our right was the Swiss Air Memorial. Now, mind you, we had a plane to catch the next day, and while I wouldn't have minded seeing it, Tonya would not consent. She is very superstitious, so I kept on driving, but I could see the massive monuments from the road as I came to a slight bend. The dark sky, the storm, and the angry sea made my skin crawl. I don't know what it was exactly, but a combination of those things and the fact so many people died, that it was at once an awesome moment, but an unnerving one all at the same time. The other thing I noticed was that you could see the lighthouse in the distance, which meant you could have seen the crash site from the Light. I did not tell Tonya that.

As we pulled up to the road leading to the Lighthouse, the sky became a little lighter, and I noticed a very picturesque fishing village we were driving through to get to the lighthouse. I thought on a nice day one could get some very lovely pictures until I noticed the tourists strolling down the streets under umbrellas.
         

                                                                                

                                                                                        

Peggy's Cove fishing village and notice the sightseers?

                                                                                      

     

Famous boat Miss Peggy's Cove

                                                                                      

Fishing shack

 

As we drove up the narrow lane to the lighthouse, we found ourselves in very slow traffic. I was amazed. I thought for sure no one would come out on such a bad day, a Monday and late in the season. As we got up into the parking lot, I took a look at the Light, and there were lots of people up next to it, so I thought we'd not get any good shots.
 

                                    

The fog was rolling in, the rain was coming down with a vengeance, the wind was fierce, and the sea spray hit the rocks sounding like thunder. Even the roiling sea was loud, and with the screaming wind, it was a bit of a harrowing experience. Tonya said it would be a bad afternoon for the Flying Dutchman. The problem was that the rocks were slippery, and there was this sign which Tonya only got a part of because the wind was buffeting her so badly.

In other words, if you are stupid and not watching your step, you could be swept out to sea

We went onward toward the Light, and something marvellous happened. There was no one at the light—not a soul. Tonya took her pictures as quickly as she could. There was a tremendous downpour, and everyone but us ran indoors. Well, we were getting used to being rained on. Here's what we got.

AWESOME!

Me on my lonesome

As soon as the squall let up, we were back to this:

People started arriving again, but at least we got our shots

The wind was really stirred up. These are the rocks just below the lighthouse, where I was told people make bad misjudgements, thinking they can get better pictures. They are slippery (you can see how slick they are), and the sea is deep and cold.

Rocky coast

                                                                                       

We moved on as the storm alternated from a driving rain to a misty fog. We had done and seen everything we wanted. Except for two of our accommodations, we were pretty satisfied. So it was onward to Halifax and the Waverley for one last night in the Vanderbilt Room.

Gabe
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